Bimble and Pimble

sewing with sass!

Amanda vs Simplicity 2648

For a lady who has been sewing for five years I really don’t have much in the way of party dresses. In fact, in the lead up to Frocktails the only party options I had was my Tiki dress or my tulle skirt. Pretty rad stuff but those wardrobe stats aren’t great. So I did what any rad sewasaurus would do: rifled through my pattern stash, got some fancy fabric and sewed it like it’s hot. Boom! Say hello to my (very belated) Frocktails party frock!

This is Simplicity 2648 and is a classic sheath dress in the Amazing Fit line. It has three different sleeve options, three different neckline options, four different cup size options and individual pattern pieces for slim, average and curvy fit. Basically, it is the Goldilocks of princess seam bodice frocks. And, as I discovered today, sadly out of print. Though in saying that, I snaffled this bad boy from Spotlight at the end of last year in a pattern sale so there are still a bunch floating around.

The fabric is an acrylic/polyester/silk/nylon/wool blend from the fine folks at The Fabric Store as part of my February fabric allowance. The black pattern is rather eye catching as it has a wet look effect and catches the light. If you were feeling sassy you could even use the reverse – it was tempting but I wanted the black to be feature colour not the base. But real talk: it was a jerk to sew with. As to be expected with the different materials this sucker liked to fray. And not just a little. If I looked at it funny there were threads all over my floor. Ugh. So note to future self: overlock edges.

Construction wise, this was pretty fun. I should have read the instructions but was totally rushing to get this dress made for Sydney Frocktails and just jumped into the project – oops! As a result, I ended up messing with the bodice a fair bit. I decided the V neck was a bit too office wear so extended this by 2cm. And because I was on a roll I also redrew the armscye, added height under the bust to even the waist, scooped out the back neckline to make the back a bit more party and took the side seams significantly in. Boom! It has been far too long since I played around with a princess seam bodice and this one was a great place to work from!

For the skirt, I decided I wanted something a little sassy. I initially tried a gathered skirt and the effect was HIDEOUS. It may have resembled Marie Antoinette. Except with less cake. And pastel colours.

Image from Marie Antoinette (2006)

Seriously, when I walked out of the sewing room to check out the basted skirt in the mirror my husband did a double take with his mouth open in disbelief. And it truly was that horrid. And with two days to go to the event I did what every desperate sewing wizard would do and set my alarm for crazy o’clock the next morning to rip out the seams and try again. And can I say that before-work sewing is freaking awesome?! My brain was totally switched on and everything came together easily. I cut down my fabric to a better width (1:1.5 ratio) and then box pleated like it’s hot. My initial idea was to make one of those super cool midi length frocks but then time decided to get sassy. I’ve never worn a short cocktail dress before and this was the time to give it a go. And I have to say, even though I was a bit freaked out about all my leg on display, it was kind of fun. And cool. Because at Frocktails it was hot – I don’t mean from just all the rad sewasauruses being there… Summer in Sydney is full on!

What I loved about this pattern:

  • An awesome bodice to work from. Being able to trace a cup size that works from the start is such a relief. I love all the options that are available with this. It’s sewing for lazy rad people with limited time.
  • The possibility for change. When I have finished tweaking the fit of this bodice, I’m looking forward to using it as a base for future frocks. Less time messing with bodices = more time to eat chips and dip. Win!
  • How freaking rad it turned out. I am super proud of this one with all my changes 😀

What I would change for next time:

  • Read the instructions. Past Amanda was in too much of a rush and she could have saved some time and effort by finding out about the various seam allowances that are on these pieces. Epic. Fail.
  • Finalise the bodice fit. The fit under the bust still needs a little work and once that is done I’ll have a great base to work from!
  • Make a work version. I seriously think the actual sheath dress version of this in a funky corporate fabric would be pretty rad. This lady is all about the work wear at the moment…

The Deets

Pattern:          Simplicity 2648

Fabric:           1.5m of crazy blend of wonder from The Fabric Store, 0.5m black lawn for lining from stash

Notions:         50cm invisible zip cut to size, thread, all the overlocking

Size:                18

Alterations:  scooped out front neckline by 2cm, removed 1.5cm from under bust apex on princess seams, lengthened front pieces by 1.5cm grading to nothing at sides, removed 1cm from armscye on side front pieces, removed 3cm on side seams, scooped out back neckline

See also:        A Challenging Sew, Idle Fancy, Red Knits

Overall, I really dig this frock. It was super comfy to wear and I felt just the right level of dressed up for Frocktails. And what a weekend away it was! I got to hang with some of my CBR Sewing Crew peeps as we road tripped down and stayed at a youth hostel (cheap, cheerful and close to the venue = win!). Then it was time to catch up with lots of Sydney sewing peeps, meet a bunch of awesome new friends and chat all the sewing. Sadly I didn’t get to break out my sweet dance moves… Maybe next time!

Amanda vs Simplicity 1609

Real talk: The first quarter of 2017 has been a bit up and down for me. While my health has been on the fritz (boo!) I’ve scored an awesome new job (yay!) that is helping to even things out. And now that I have talked myself into an executive role I figure it’s time to give my work wardrobe an overhaul. First step: a simple shift dress with a kick ass print. Why hello there boss type Amanda!

This bad boy is Simplicity 1609 – a 1960s shift dress. It is a sleeveless a-line with a centre front seam, fitting darts and a back zip. As a “Jiffy” pattern it is pretty chilled – two main pattern pieces that come together super quickly. And by super quickly I mean it took me one afternoon to toile and a few short sessions the next morning to cut and sew. Boom! I feel like that kind of speed qualifies me as a sewing ninja!

The fabric is rather special and one that has been waiting for just the right pattern. This crazy printed fun is is a Max Mara cotton sateen I snaffled from Tessuti Fabrics for my birthday last year. It feels amazing and was an absolute dream to work with. Unfortunately when I purchased the fabric I was thinking a gathered skirt so only grabbed 1.5m. As a result I had to play fabric Tetris to get all the pieces to fit so the centre front seam has some weird pattern mojo going on. Oh well! I think it still looks pretty sharp!

Construction wise this was straightforward and quick. There are four main fabric pieces and the facings (which I actually used for once!) The most exciting part of the construction was working with three different dart types all in one pattern – it’s nice to see French darts, double-pointed darts and straight darts all working together to help me look all kinds of rad 😉

I played around a little with the fit a little taking the side seams, shortening the straight darts and taking 2cm off the CF seam from under the bust to the hem. I also moved and lengthened the back neckline darts and removed 2cm from the back neckline. The hem was kept at just over knee level to keep the early 60s feel going. Though the urge to go full-mod with a mini was pretty high!

What I liked about this pattern:

  • It was quick and simple! Nothing like a pattern you can take from packet to hanger within a day!
  • All the darts. Seriously. It was so much fun to see how these lines can shape fabric to your body.
  • The 60s feel. I was a bit concerned that this shape would be overwhelming on me (especially with the print!) but I love it. It feels professional but also fun. Funfessional? Let’s make that a thing!

What I would change for next time:

  • Use a fabric with a bit more structure. The sateen is so lovely and feels amazing on but I think a tiny bit more heft would hold the shape better.
  • Work on the fit a little more. Though realistically this is probably me being paranoid as this doesn’t hug my waist as much as my regular outfits.
  • Ditch the facing. I think a lined version would be much better for work – especially as I tend to wear tights in winter. Oops.

The Deets

Pattern:                 Simplicity 1609

Fabric:                  1.5m of Max Mara sateen from Tessuti Fabrics, 0.4m cotton voile for facing

Notions:                thread, 50cm zip trimmed to fit

Size:                        18

Alterations:         3cm removed from side seams, 2cm removed from under the bust to the hem on the centre front, straight darts shortened by 1cm, 2cm removed from back neckline, back neckline darts moved and lengthened by 5cm, bottom of armholes raised by 1cm.

See also:                Bobbin and Baste, Erika Made It, Akram’s Ideas

Overall, I’m happy with how this one turned out. It’s a total shift from my normal style (see what I did there? bwah ha ha!) and I was super surprised with how much I dig the finished result. This feels work appropriate but still has enough going on that it still feels “me”. And let’s be real – when you’re recovering from surgery anything that you can stitch up in short bursts is a total win. Even Pimble seems impressed… Or more likely just hungry. You win some, you lose some 🙂

Amanda vs Centaurée Dress

It happens to me every year – by the time I am fully prepped and ready to go with lots of sundress sewing the weather turns. So while the weather is starting to cool and the days are beginning to shorten let’s squeeze in a few more sundresses…

This fun frock is the Centaurée Dress from Deer and Doe. The Centaurée is a sundress with double spaghetti straps (made from bias binding) and a geometric pieced bodice. I made Version A that has a skirt that hits above the knees. If you want to make this a bit dressier (bwah ha ha – bad pun!) then Version B would be a winner – it features a high/low hem with some extra length.

The fabric is a Pima cotton I picked up at the Gamarra markets in Lima while on my Peru odyssey last year. It presses like a dream, feels amazing to wear and has a nice amount of body. If you look closely the little flecks are birds in flight and are actually a very pale pink. Perfection! Though every time I look at this fabric all I can think of is “put a bird on it” from Portlandia.

Image courtesy of IFC

Constructing this frock was rather fun! The instruction booklet was clear and the illustrations were helpful – especially with piecing the bodice together. I found this part the most fiddly – getting everything to line up was like a jigsaw puzzle with fabric pieces. You sew together the three pieces on each side of the bodice and then take things super slow to match everything up on the centre line. I won’t lie – I totally did a little happy dance when things matched up. And by little happy dance I mean dance party complete with robot moves to Will Smith’s “Getting Jiggy With It”. There’s no shame in my 90s game 😉

I did end up making a couple of adjustments to the pattern – I lined the bodice, shaped the waist by 5cm on each side and added pockets. Because every lady needs pockets in her frocks – where else would she hide emergency chocolate bars? Oh, wait – is that just me?

stealth side pockets in action…

What I loved about this pattern:

  • The bodice details. I haven’t seen any other dress bodice like this and it is a fab change from the normal princess seam or four dart details.
  • The bias binding straps. This is pretty much the epitome of sundress features!

What I would change for next time:

  • Bodice fit. Even though I did a toile of this bodice the fit is off on this finished piece.
  • Shorten or lengthen the hem. There is something not quite right about where it hits. It’s the Goldilocks hem paradox – what length is just right? 😀

The Deets

Pattern:            Centaurée Dress by Deer and Doe

Fabric:              2m of pima cotton from deepest darkest Peru

Notions:           zip, thread

Size:                   46

Adjustments: Lined bodice, 5cm off waist on each side, added pockets

See also:           Paunnet, Bolt and Spool, What Katie Sews

Okay, so let’s real talk. While I had a blast making this dress I am not feeling it. There are a number of issues with this bad boy: the fit in the bodice is off, the bodice seam is in a weird place and the bodice shaping is just too boxy for me. On top of that, I loathe strapless bras and the cute spaghetti straps of the Centaurée deserve one.

So what does that mean? This frock is going in for a refashion. I am going to remove the skirt and see if there is enough fabric to piece together this cute peplum top. I think for someone with more patience to get the bodice fit right the Centaurée is a winner – and there are some gorgeous versions out there. But my sewing time is too precious and this pattern doesn’t light a fire in my belly so for the first time I’m breaking up with a Deer and Doe pattern. Eep! But before I go through the break up let’s dance party again!

Amanda vs Josie Dress

1980s Amanda has no idea she had it so good. She was living it up on a hobby farm with a pet goat and a pet goose, rocked some epic 80s sundresses and had access to the occasional piece of Mum-made Cherry Ripe slice. So pretty much living the dream. Now 2010s Amanda has things pretty sweet but one thing she was missing was the perfect 80s sundress. Oh and the pet goat. But that isn’t the focus here. We’re talking 80s. We’re talking sundresses. And we are talking the return of the 80s sundress – check out its majesty!

This pattern is the Josie Dress (aka Robe Josie) from Republique du Chiffon. It is the total epitome of what I want in a sundress this year – a little bit 80s but with a whole lot of fun. It has a fitted bodice featuring princess seams and angled waistband, a button up front, slash pockets, tulip skirt and crossed shoulder straps. So… pretty much perfect. When I stumbled across this late one night while doing some very important research (read: style stalking awesome sewists’ blogs) it was love (and purchase) at first sight!

The fabric is a simply lovely Liberty lawn called Tiers of Light. The lovely folks at The Fabric Store very kindly provided this one to me gratis (thank you guys!) and I grabbed a piece of the teal colourway. Just like the other Liberty I have worked with this was a dream – like sewing together pretty pieces of cloud. The only complaint I have about this fabric is that it is so dang hard to photo. Yup. Lamest. Complaint. Ever.

Construction wise, this went together pretty easily. This was my second version of the Josie (the first made in bits and pieces when I was sick and on painkillers. I’ll share that one in the future!) so I had an idea of how I wanted it to go together. I added fusing to the button bands, fully lined the bodice and lengthened the pattern by 8cm. Yup. You read that right. When I first measured off the pattern pieces this frock was set to mini level. I mean, I’m a little above average height (5’8”) but this design made me feel like Godzilla. FEAR MY MIGHTY SEWASAURUS POWERS!

Image that accurately reflects me as Godzilla dealing with fitting issues. Courtesy of The Simpsons.

Fit wise, there is some work still to be done. I made a rookie busty lady mistake with this one. I did all my fitting whilst wearing a regular comfy bra and when I went to wear it with my strapless bra things were not sitting quite right. There are some pull lines around the bust but they haven’t stopped me wearing it out. I might unpick the lining and go release the side seams. But then again, I’m lazy. It’s cute and I already wear it out so we’ll see how that goes. (Translation: unless the frock starts gaping this lady is going to spend that time playing Machi Koro and having a cheeky gin!)

What I liked about this pattern:

  • Feel the 80s power! Seriously. I think it is the bodice design paired with the gathering that makes this all kinds of rad.
  • The bodice details. The princess seams and the angled waistband are so much fun to put together. It’s like a jigsaw puzzle for ladies who sew. And like their jigsaws to have only six pieces. Bwah ha ha!
  • The Liberty. This is just as awesome to sew with as I remember. I mean, sure there are no pirate ships on this frock but it is still all kinds of fierce!

What I would change for next time:

  • Wear the right underpinning when fitting. Such a rookie mistake. Hopefully this does not mean Hufflepuff will lose five points in the Sewing House Cup!
  • Straight straps. While I love the crossover look it makes me feel like I should be training for some hard core gym event. And may make me pose like the worst body builder ever. You’re welcome in advance for the next high calibre photo 😉
  • I really can’t think of anything else. I am seriously in love with this pattern. Like crazy heart eye emoji love!

The Deets

Pattern: Robe Josie by Republique du Chiffon and yes you can get an English language version. I scored mine from Stitch 56 because instant gratification is sometimes a thing I do. Bwah ha ha!

Fabric: 1.5m Liberty lawn Tiers of Light in Teal provided by the rad folks at The Fabric Store, 0.5m white lawn from my stash, 0.5m blouseweight interfacing from my stash.

Notions: Thread, 9 clear buttons from my stash (there may have been some horrendous teal buttons purchased for this frock while under the effects of hard core painkillers pre-surgery. Ugh. Thank goodness for a notions stash)

Size: 44

Adjustments: Bodice fully lined, skirt lengthened by 8cm, extra button added and button holes moved.

See also: Lepetitmondedeflora, Momita’s Blog, Self Assembly Required

Overall, this is a freaking cute sundress. It is so lovely and cool to wear and has been perfect in the bananas 39 degree days we have been experiencing in Canberra this week. Which would be fine if our house had more than one ceiling fan. Which it does not. And I may be spending a lot of my spare time sitting in a wading pool with the dogs (but sans cat as she was not impressed when I tried to cool her down). Hopefully the temperature drops again soon so I can get back in my sewing room because I want to sew a blazer. In the middle of summer. Because apparently I have gone crazy with the heat… Wish me luck!

 

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