Bimble and Pimble

sewing with sass!

Amanda vs Alix Dress

When invited to a wedding earlier this year I realised it was time to create the magic unicorn of fancy dresses – something that looks ace but also is super comfy so I can double down on wedding cake (and hopefully candy table treats as that seems to be a thing now which I totes support). So after pawing through my pattern stash of fabulous fit and flare frocks to no avail I delved into the realm of printable patterns and found the best of both worlds. Sassy frock AND belt tie waist that can accomodate ALL THE CAKE? Count this lady in!

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This is the Alix Dress from By Hand London. The Alix is a high waisted frock with a V-neck yoke, waistband and belt ties. It has some super full 70s-esque sleeves with elastic cuffs which makes me feel like I should be on my way to Coachella or the like. I went with Version B which is the above the knee party version because apparently this lady is feeling sassy. There is also Version A which is maxi length and Version C which is a top.

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Let’s real talk here – the fabric you pick for this needs to have a seriously flow-y hand. I had a quick dig through my stash and realised that nothing quite suited so grabbed some black rayon crepe from The Fabric Store online. As I was in a rush I went rogue and didn’t get a swatch and thankfully it turned out a-okay. This is a mid-weight rayon with a lovely drape and is opaque enough I didn’t need to line things. Phew! One thing to note – this pattern gobbles up fabric like a Pac Man on those weird pellets so be forewarned. Said fabric gobbling may have factored into why I didn’t go floor length as well – a lady has only so many dollars to spend.

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Alterations wise I did a lot of reshaping in the bust area and, being completely honest, there is still work to do. I generally have to do a full bust adjustment (FBA) on most things I make and this was no exception. I decided to make a fitting toile of the basic pattern with no adjustment and ended with the yoke attaching over my bust apex. Eep! I did a total hack job (not recommended!) and slashed, spread and basically went crazy. In the end I had an additional 5cm of length to the front seams added which allowed the yoke to attach under the bust. I also added 5cm of length to the front yoke. There is still some tweaking to do but the rayon was forgiving and I was in a rush so it was fine for the night. One thing to note – the early versions of this pattern had tucks rather than gathers at the bust. This version is gathers and I think the look is a lot softer.

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Construction wise, it was pretty straight forward once the fitting was done. I used my walking foot because the rayon was a little shifty and just took things slowly. I did have some issues with my fusible interfacing on the yoke. The stuff I had was from deep in my stash (read: very old) and this did not hold up to a wash and has bubbled. Gah! Also, in hindsight interfacing the ties may have been a good idea so they retained a little shape.

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What I liked about this pattern:

  • Those sweet sweet ties. When you undo the dress it looks like a giant sack and when I first showed it to El Husbando he visibly recoiled. The good news is you can tighten those ties to where you want them for shape. Or loosen them to allow for more desserts. Which I totally did and had me some second cake. Winning at life!
  • The sleeves. They are not my normal style but I quite like them.

What I would change for next time:

  • Finish correcting the fit on the bodice. I’d like to lengthen the yoke a little more towards my natural waist.
  • 70s print fabric! I feel like this can be an awesome summer event frock with the right floral fabric. Yeah, baby!

The Deets

Pattern: Alix Dress by By Hand London

Fabric: Black Ryaon Crepe from The Fabric Store

Notions:  thread, fusible interfacing

Size: US12/UK16

Alterations:  slash and spread of bodice cups by 5cm, lengthening of front yoke by 5cm, lengthening of skirt by 5cm

See also: Adventures of a Young Seamstress, Valeria Speck, Sophie Bac

Overall, it was fun to make and wear something so totally outside of my normal wheelhouse. This is what I love about sewing – it gives me a chance to play with looks and ideas that I would not be comfortable buying ready to wear. And now I can finally say I have a little black dress. Does that mean I am finally starting to adult? Hmmm…

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Amanda vs Granville Shirt

This year I headed into autumn with a plan. A cunning plan. A plan so good I needed to sit down and have a Caramello Koala to celebrate when it was done. Drumroll please… I designed a capsule wardrobe. Boom! Adulting win. It had ten key pieces and I identified patterns that would work, ordered fabrics and arranged notions and had all my little sewing ducks lined up in a row. And then life happened and my well planned sewing got put to the side. But never fear! Seasons may change, the temperature may drop below zero but those ace autumnal pieces will get sewn ready in time to wear for  autumn 2018! So please welcome my first autumn 2017 capsule wardrobe piece with a rousing cheer. Huzzah!

This sharp number is the Granville Shirt by Sewaholic Patterns. The Granville is an oldie but a goodie – a fitted, long sleeve button-down shirt  with plackets and cuffs. What drew me to this pattern is the lady cargo friendly front darts and some sweet back princess seams – fitting win! Whilst I dig my both my sleeveless Archer and dotted swiss Archer and wear them a bunch I wanted to try something more fitted around the waist which the Granville totally manages. I made View B and left the front pocket off to simplify the lines (or because I was lazy…) 😉

The fabric is a chambray cotton shirting from The Fabric Store. It is super lovely, has a nice tight weave and presses like a dream. In hindsight, I think this chambray was a bit too structured for this top. I feel like every time I move it appears like there are bananas drag lines everywhere drawing the eye. Oh well, you live and you learn. Next time I would go for a tencel blend so there is a bit more drape. Or a patterned print. Because, repeat after me, patterns hide our sewing sins!

Construction wise, this was a straightforward button up shirt to make. The instructions were clear, easy to follow and well illustrated. The only two issues I had were totally on me…

  1. The chap at Officeworks who printed this for me DID NOT PRINT TO SCALE! Gah! I was in a total rush when I got the pattern printed and forgot to check. I have never had any issues before so of course this was the time it all went wrong and by the time I realised my fabric was cut. Anwho, I soldiered on and this top has the scantest seam allowance in the history of sewing and is just a bit too small all over. Lesson learned. The most recent time I got something printed I totally took my sewing gauge and pulled it out to measure things on the spot. In my head I was super cool like a sewing gun slinger in the old west. In reality, I probably looked like a crazy lady wielding a tiny ruler but whatevs…
  2. Tower plackets are not yet my friends. My first one was hideously mishappened and any resemblance to an actual tower placket was coincidental. My second attempt was much better and is what I would call “tower placket-esque”. I seriously love how sewing continues to give me new skills to learn and improve upon. And also reasons to invent fabulous insults as I screw something up for the twelfth time!

Alterations wise, I took the advice of a friend who has made this pattern a number of times and measured the sleeves. As a result, I removed 1.5cm from the length to get them to a length I was happy with. Which in hindsight really doesn’t matter because I always where long sleeved shirts cuffed (ugh to things touching my wrist!). I also moved the placement of the buttonholes/snaps so there was one placed in line with my bust apex. I’ve learned that lesson the hard way with many of my previous tops needing to be safety pinned shut to avoid gaping. It’s not quite the perfect placement but it’s getting there. I also had fun making this a bit more Amanda-ish with some pearl snaps, polka dot collar stand fabric and some sassy pink patterned hem binding. Check it out!

What I liked about this pattern:

  • The fit. Whilst I love the boxy men’s shirt feel of the Archer there is something rad about having a top fit at my bust, waist and hips. And back princess seams are the best! My Springfield top totally converted me.
  • All the lovely details. Who can say no to some sweet top stitching and fancy tower plackets? Probably a bunch of people but not this sassy lady!
  • The clear instructions. I’m getting to a point with sewing that I don’t use instructions a lot but when I do I want them easy to follow. These ticket that box like a boss 😀

What I would change next time:

  • PRINT TO SCALE!!!! Hmmm… it appears that I am still quite vexed about that little mishap which has made everything just a smidge too small. Grrr.
  • Try this in a tercel blend. I feel like it just needs a smidge more drape – also I want to relive the 90s when tencel was a huge thing at all the jeans shops in Australia.
  • Work on my button placement. It’s still not quite right.

The Deets

Pattern: Granville Shirt by Sewaholic Patterns

Fabric: 2.1m of Chambray Cotton Shirting from The Fabric Store

Notions: 9 x pearl snaps from Lincraft, contrast thread, 1-ish metres of bias binding from the stash

Size: 14 bust, 12 waist and 10 hips (though as mentioned earlier who actually knows as the pattern was not printed to scale)

Alterations: moved button holes, shortened arms by 2cm, sassy customisations (ALL THE PEARL SNAPS!)

See also: Design by Lindsay, Saturday Night Stitch, Sew Redy

Overall, I think this is a pretty good rescue job of a bad situation. Whilst the fabric is a little too stiff and the fit is a bit small thanks to the print fail it’s still a wearable number. Now I just need to find the perfect chambray tencel and try again… Any suggestions on a fabric supplier welcome!

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Amanda vs The Asaka Kimono

One of the best parts of uni was the ability to catch the occasional bit of daytime TV. I mean, sure, my degree and the ensuing career were all kinds of rad but we’re talking seriously cheesy soap operas here – Days of Our Lives, Passions, The Bold and the Beautiful. These little midday gems were a total treat between study sessions and being totally honest I watched far too much over my course of study. Now it seems that over a decade later the Ghost of TV Past is haunting me as my latest project is totally daytime tv worthy… Ladies and gentleman, grab your long lost identical twin, gaze into the distance while speaking slowly and get ready for the plot twist – it’s Amanda’s 2017 kimono-palooza!

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This swishy wonder is the Asaka Kimono by Named Clothing. The Asaka is an open front, relaxed fit kimono with super full split sleeves. These bad boys are perfect for swanning around the house in and dramatically turning to great effect when finding out that your partner/lover/houseplant has amnesia! I originally purchased this pattern back in 2015 to make a version as a gift and that sucker was a PDF home print job. UGH. Luckily, the rad peeps at Named Clothing now have a copy shop version so after getting in touch they sent through the new files. HUZZAH! And those suckers even had a seam allowance. Oh happy days!

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Now let’s talk fabric. This is seriously the most luxe garment I have ever sewn and it feels amazing on! The fabric is a Liberty crepe de chine in the colour way Ombrellino A from The Fabric Store. As we know, Liberty is not really my jam but occasionally a piece comes up that speaks to me and something about this fabric screamed AMANDA MAKE A KIMONO OUT OF ME RIGHT NOW. Who was I to anger the fabric gods? I was super naughty and pre-washed this fabric by hand using a delicate detergent which worked well. After my last attempt at making this I cut every single piece on the flat, kept the pieces stored flat and found the sleeve heads still suffered from a relaxed weave and stretched out. Oh well, you can’t win them all! And more importantly – my advanced pattern tetris skills allowed me to squeeze this sucker out of 3m of fabric with no more to spare. Phew!

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Construction wise, this was a pain in my butt. Things have been a bit bumpy at Chez Bimble and Pimble this year which has meant sewing is now done in 15 to 20 minute chunks so a project with super fiddly fabric which encourages slow sewing may not have been my best choice… I really took my time sewing this up and paid attention to the little details which was simultaneously super enjoyable but also frustrating due to the slow pace.

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In saying that, I am beyond happy with how this bad boy turned out. The fiddly 3/8″ French seams tried my patience but was totally worth it. Even though I had to redo the left sleeve twice due to assembling things incorrectly. Whoops! To help me wrangle the Liberty I used my walking foot for the entire project and also a new Microtex needle – this meant that Daisy the Janome didn’t get too hungry and try to draw the fabric into the bobbin case. Huzzah! The biggest challenge for me making the Asaka was totally the silk – this would be a much easier make in a cotton or something less slippery. Curse you lovely yet capricious silk!

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What I loved about this pattern:

  • How freaking glam I feel wearing this. It is such a soap opera garment but also the perfect antidote to a bad day. These sleeves are made for dancing to Wuthering Heights at full volume while serenading your dogs!
  • The sleeves. They are seriously cool. And also slightly impractical. But who cares when you look this dang rad?!? 😛
  • Pretty much everything!

What I would change for next time:

  • Lengthen the kimono by an inch or so. I’d love to make one for wearing out but this is a bit too short for me to feel comfortable in.
  • Make the belt longer. I’d like to double wrap and have a bigger bow but my need to keep the fabric to a minimum meant I couldn’t make this any longer. Grr!
  • Make a lawn or voile version. I feel like a lightweight cotton version would be amazing in the summer.

Sewing, Liberty of London, Named Clothing, Asaka Kimono, Me Made Wardrobe, Ombrellino A, The Fabric Store, Kimono, Sewcialist, Named Patterns, Sewing with Silk, DIY, Liberty Fabric, Bimble and Pimble

The Deets

Pattern: Asaka Kimono by Named Clothing

Fabric: Liberty Crepe de Chine Silk in Ombrellino A from The Fabric Store

Notions: blouse weight interfacing, thread, microtel needle

Size: 44 (and super happy with the shoulder and bust fit!)

Alterations: none – yay for wrap tops!

See also: my floral Asaka Kimono  because apparently I’m tooting my own horn here… :o)

Overall, I seriously love this kimono! My poor husband is a bit sick of me swanning around the house and calling him “Daaaaahling” but relationships are all about celebrating each others’ quirks, right? In all seriousness, this is such a fun pattern and I’m glad I finally got round to sewing one for myself. Now in parting I would like to offer you one of the outakes of my photos of the kimono – it was a crazy windy day and the silk just wouldn’t behave… Ka-kaw! I have silk wings!

Sewing, Liberty of London, Named Clothing, Asaka Kimono, Me Made Wardrobe, Ombrellino A, The Fabric Store, Kimono, Sewcialist, Named Patterns, Sewing with Silk, DIY, Liberty Fabric, Bimble and Pimble

Pure. Class.

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Amanda vs Plantain T-shirt

For this rad lady, winter is all about the comfort options. We’re talking comfort podcast (The Adventure Zone), comfort beverage (cocoa with at least 5 marshmallows) and comfort clothes (flannel PJs with elastic waist). Using the theorem that comfort = winter win I have been gently coaxing my sewing mojo out of hibernation with a comfy pattern and fabric combo. Sadly, no elastic waists included…

This pattern is an oldie but a goodie – the Deer and Doe Plaintain T-Shirt. The Plantain is a scoop necked tee with a flared hem and as with all D+D patterns seems to treat my FBA-needing lady cargo pretty well. The size range of the Plantain has increased and now runs from a 34 to a 52. And did I mention this sucker is a freebie? That is my kind of price tag!

The fabric is a lightweight merino jersey in the ivory colourway from The Fabric Store. I snaffled this in Melbourne but you can find it in any of their stores and online. I’ve used this before for making a tee and it lasted really well. I was always hesitant to wear a merino t-shirt because for some reason I thought I’d overheat but the rad Rachel changed my mind on this a few years back and I’m glad I listened. I wore this top repeatedly on holiday in Vanuatu and it lasted well in the warmth and humidity. This lady stayed as fresh as a sassy daisy!

The construction of this sucker was super easy. There is only a few pieces and the instructions are clear and easy to follow. The exciting news is that I played around on my coverstitch with this one and had fun with a fancy hem. Do I need that extra line of stitching? Heck no! But it makes me feel fancy and isn’t that what creating your own clothes is all about?

Alterations wise, I slimmed down the sides of the tee. The flared shape is great for wearing a tee out but I wanted something for tucking into my chambray shorts and my jeans. No fancy technique here but thought it was worth mentioning as there are draglines round the back over my hips when the shirt is out. Here is a picture I prepared earlier to illustrate this (gosh I’m good like that!) 😉

What I liked about this pattern:

  • That sweet scoop neck. This is the main reason I keep making this tee – the scoop is just perfect.
  • It is a quick win. With my sewing mojo completely shot something like that practical and quick to make is a good confidence booster.

What I would change for next time:

  • Find out what the go is with those drag lines near the armholes. It’s time to don my deerstalker hat!
  • Potentially shorten the hem by a couple of centimetres if I want to wear it untucked. I like my shirts to hit my hip bones and no longer. Geez I’m fussy!

The Deets

Pattern: Plantain Tee from Dee & Doe

Fabric: 1m of ivory merino jersey from The Fabric Store in Melbourne.

Notions: thread

Size: 44

Adjustments: straightened side seam from below bust to hem

See also: shameless plug for Past-Amanda

Overall, I love the Plantain t-shirt and I have been wearing the heck out of this one. I even made another one up in a tissue weight jersey I got from Mood a ways back. While I love that top it is waaaaay too transparent to wear out of the house so just imagine a super rad and floaty eggplant coloured version of the above… Nice work! You imagined it perfectly! Now to see if I can coax my sewing mojo to make something else that is not a t-shirt… I believe there is some Liberty silk calling my name!

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