Amanda vs The Bellatrix Blazer

I have avoided the blazer trend like a plague for a few years now. My wardrobe has more bomber jackets, pea coats and cardigans than you can poke a stick at. But blazers? Bah! They are for the cool kids or the peeps doing business- not for this museum nerd! But when you’re facing a deadline for an assessment task and need a rad jacket pattern to make you find yourself taking a peek at some blazers. Nothing serious, just a glance. And as you narrow the list of potential patterns down to three you realise to your horror they are all blazers! What has happened? What have you become? But once the blazer is finished and on you realise, dang, I should have been blazing for a while now!

Papercut-Patterns-Bellatrix-Blazer

This lovely number is the Bellatrix Blazer from Papercut Patterns. It’s a shawl collared, single button closure, fitted blazer which comes in both a cropped and longer length. For the final task of my industrial clothing construction course (which sounds far more glam that it is!) I went with the longer length. The Bellatrix ticked all the boxes the task asked of me (jacket, collar, pockets, button) and even better the pattern itself was free thanks to a sweet sweet gift voucher for The Fabric Store. I do believe that is called winning at assessment task preparation!

The shell fabric is a super light, almost waffle like, cotton/poly blend from Tessuti Fabrics. This fabric has the most amazing texture and the green is a weird combo of olive and lime that somehow works. Concerned about the stability of the fabric, the shell fabric was block fused which has given the jacket the perfect amount of structure.The lining is the first crepe de chine I have ever worked with and hot damn this stuff is LUSH! How have I never used this before? The adorable bow print came from The Fabric Store and was the perfect way to line the jacket as I saw this as a casual summer number worn with the sleeves rolled up. Oh, and I should probably warn you this post exceeds my six photo rule because I want to show off some details… O_o

Bellatrix-Blazer-Lining

Construction wise the Bellatrix was pretty straight forward except for the whole working to a crazy tight assessment deadline after missing two classes (and quite frankly Malaysia and its cocktails was worth it!). I kept mostly to the pattern but did add a one inch action pleat to the lining (if I need to She Hulk out to stop a crime don’t want my fierce blazer getting damaged), a centimetre to the sleeve and sleeve lining length, and a coat hook loop to keep things sassy. And because I am a total show pony and wanted to challenge myself I completely bagged out the lining and was beyond stoked that my exposed stitches in the sleeve only ended up being two inches. It’s normal to turn your sleeves inside out constantly to show this kind of work off to colleagues, friendly shop owners and randoms on the street, right? Right?!

Bellatrix-Blazer-Side

But let’s talk fitting. As this was a construction course there was no time allocated for fitting. I did a super quick toile at home to get the general gist for things but didn’t have time to get into a proper fit. After wearing this for a while I’ve found I’m not happy about the fitting across my back. It may be all my She Hulk muscles but it feels quite restrictive and the fabric is pulling. A bit more room in the bust for the lady cargo would be tops as well- though the shoulder fit feels pretty good… Perhaps a shawl collar FBA could be in order! Is that a thing? I bet it is totally a thing. To google!

Bellatrix-Blazer-Back

And because it’s my post and I’ll brag if I want to… I am so proud of the finish I have come up with on this blazer. The squares of the welt pocket fabric perfectly with the jacket shell, the scalloped sleeve ends are edge stitched then pressed to perfection and there is even a stealth stitch in the ditch to secure the sleeve hem to the sleeve. For a finishing touch there is a little handmade label done at the last minute (as required by the task) which managed to work my all time favourite polka dot lining into this piece. For some peeps these little details may be old hat but for me this is a sombrero hat of new skills and wonder. Huzzah!

Bellatrix-Blazer-Details

What I liked about this pattern:

  • The whole tuxedo jacket vibe. I seriously love me a shawl collar and feel like they should be worn with martini in hand.
  • The fitted waist and peplum panel. You gotta love a jacket that emphasises your curves.
  • My sassy changes. I know that’s technically not “this pattern” but I am proud of being able to add these on.

What I would change for next time:

  • Address the myriad of fitting issues going on here mainly the back and FBA sitch.
  • Try the cropped version. It would be stellar over a LBD. Note to self: also make stellar LBD.
  • Go the contrast collar and play up the tux vibe.

The Deets

Pattern: Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns

Fabric: Olive Squares poly/cotton from Tessuti Fabrics, Bow Crepe de Chine from The Fabric Store

Notions: Thread, button from stash, interfacing from Tessuti Fabrics, shoulder pads from Addicted to Fabric

See Also: Boo Dogg and Me, Sew Busy Lizzy, Alida Makes 

Papercut Bellatrix

Overall, I am super chuffed with my Bellatrix! And not only because of the Harry Potter reference (come on- it had to happen once in this review!) This was a great way to finish my construction course and gave me an opportunity to put a bunch of new skills to the test. And even better I’m feeling pumped up about getting the fit sorted and making a cropped version to go with a sassy frock. Now, if you will excuse me it’s time for me to test out the capabilities of this blazer- raptor style…

Raptor-Bellatrix-Blazer

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Comments

    • Bah! All the cool kids like to have fun with prints, Liz! And thank ye- I’m having so much fun mixing around hair colours at the moment. This one has a violet base 😀

  1. This is stunning! Love your fabric choice, especially the lining. It all looks so professional, especially the coat hook. Awesome job! And happy to see a return of the raptor hands 😛

    • Thanks, Kirsty! I am super proud of the construction on this- it’s such a step up from this time last year 😀 And I had to put a raptor back in- we always take them but I never seem to have somewhere to pop them in!

  2. This is utterly fabulous! I so need to make a blazer now. I. Must. Have. One! You are a rockstar, the details are beautiful. Did your assessor appreciate you and your blazer??

  3. This is gorgeous! Both the fabrics you used are beautiful, and the finishing looks perfect. I’m slowly coming round to the idea of blazers myself. I’ve now decided I need one for Spring.

  4. Ok, THAT is a blazer I can get behind. I always feel like if I venture onto blazer trails, I’ll walk into a meeting and get the ‘mmm hmm, somebody thinks they matter!~’ face from people! This has style and whimsy- well, of course it does, you made it.

    • That is totally the face at work I imagine! Am thinking I am going to debut this number on sassy Friday (I refuse to use the term casual Friday) and see how it rolls. I’m going the cuffed Miami Vice look- surely that says serious museum business?

  5. What a great blazer. I’m smitten with that fabric, both the outer and the lining, absolutely stunning. And beautiful workmanship. You should definitely be proud.

    • Thanks, Debbie! I am so very proud of the techniques used for this. It’s such a huge step up from my normal oeuvre for sure 😀 Plus, styling blazer! Win win, really!

  6. Gah! I love the breezy vibe the jacket gives off: very fresh and smart. Look at those beautiful details : the close-up shots are drool worthy in my book! You did amazing work. So yeah, you should totally boast and show EVERYONE how awesome this jacket is. And such lovely fabric… I said it once and I’ll say it again: you always pick the raddest fabrics for your projects.

    Ok, i’ll stop gushing now… 🙂

    • You’re too kind, Rox! 😀 It was not at all what I was imagining when I picked the pattern but I found the fabric and knew I needed a summer not winter blazer. I’m getting crazy down here 😉

  7. Amanda, this is gorgeous! I absolutely love your fabric choices – that olive green is such an unexpected and sophisticated contrast to the white, and of course the bow lining is adorable. Congrats on a beautifully sewn jacket and on completing your construction course! You should be proud of this one. 🙂

    • Thank you, Carolyn! The lining is one of my favourite parts- CDC is seriously amazing and it feels so lovely on! And one my subject left to finish my course! Almost there!

    • Thanks, Rachel! I was surprised how much fun constructing this number was 😀 I’m looking at the Tessuti Fabrics Tokyo Jacket as a nice and easy loose fit jacket as a possible upcoming project- easy blazer for the win!

    • Thank you, Heather! I am so happy with all the little finishing touches on this 😀 The sneaky ditch stitch to secure the sleeve end facing is one of my most ninja and favourite! Go on and treat yo’ self to a blazer!

  8. This looks great! I love a good blazer, although I only own ones from before I started sewing and am now well aware of how badly they fit – one day I’ll make one of my own. One day.

    • Thanks, Laura! The fitting thing is going to be a bit perplexing, I’m sure, but I’m itching to work out what’s happening in the back of the Bellatrix. Give in to the blazer power- you know you want to!

    • Rachel, you need to jump on the blazer train! It’s super fun PLUS you get to wear a blazer with the sleeves cuffed ala Miami Vice. It’s pretty much a win win situation!!! 😀

  9. Who is the coolest kid? This blazer really displays all of your mad sewing skills. And you are so right to be proud of yourself! I love when you turn the sleeves inside out: show them some lining!

  10. You certainly are blazing in this little number! That bow print lining is to die for, I’ve been eyeing off this pattern for a while so it is nice to see such a gorgeous version of it. I’m dreaming of a pink blazer. If I look half as good as you do I’ll be happy!

  11. Wow, wow, wow! What a lovely blazer 🙂 I love the way the lining shows up when you turn the sleeves up – I have some of that lining fabric too and it is definitely worth showing to the world 😀

    • Bel! Yay! So lovely to hear from you 😀 Thank you for your kind words! OMG how lush is the bow fabric? What are you going to make with yours? Please say a top so I can live vicariously through your awesomeness!

  12. Ohmigosh, beautifully done Amanda! Your finishes are superb. Maybe I should rethink my irrational aversion to blazers and blaze right along with you! 🙂

    • Carolyn, you would look smashing blazing! I can only imagine the awesome you would create 😀 And thank ye for your lovely words- so proud of this one!

  13. Wow! What a gorgeous make! Your finishing (especially the pockets!) is impeccable and yes, totally normal to share that tiny two-inch bagged lining closure bit with all coworkers, friends and family!

    • Thanks, Jo! I won’t lie- those welt square lineups took three attempts per side- panels cut on the curve made for troubles matching. But the happiness I felt with the result- SQUEE! 😀

  14. This is the shit!! Seriously amazing. All your extra effort was totally worth it. I’ve been wanting to make up this pattern for ages. This winter it’s happening!

    • Thanks, Elizabeth! It is such a cracker of a pattern 😀 I am going to go with a colour blocked coat a la your lovely version from last winter. We can totes style swap!

  15. Dude, you look DOPE! Blazers are SO SO SO fun to make and wear… I’m so glad you hopped on the blazer train! I always feel confident and cool when I’m wearing one (probably because they’re such a step up from my usual sweatshirts and plaid buttondowns) and you look WAY cool in this! Beautiful job!

    • Thanks, Sonja! I am so stoked with this! I am such a jeans a tee girl and can’t wait to go blazing with said jeans and tee this Friday at work. I reckon I can make it work aprops!

  16. Without a doubt, hands down, my favourite Bellatrix Blazer I’ve seen to date. I’m about to make the Chloé Blazer, but you’ve tempted me away with this stellar version! And that lining! And that raptor pose! <3

  17. Hey, I’m making one of these babies right now too!! *hi fives*!!

    I am so glad you made the long version – I love the short version but I had a suspicion the longer one would be more wearable with jeans and trousers, so I’m opting to make that one too. I was having doubts about the wisdom of my choice until I saw yours and now I know it’s the right way to go! ^__^

    BTW I’m doing an FBA on mine so I’ll let you know how that goes 😉

  18. Oh I LOVE your Blazer. I have made that pattern twice and wear both jackets endlessly in winter but both are the cropped version. Now seeing your longer version I think I need to go make another! I love the colour and the lining is fabulous. Very inspiring 🙂

    • Thanks, Jodie! 😀 I am doing a Certificate Three in Clothing Production at TAFE. It’s a course to prep people for working in industrial sewing. It was the only non-beginner sewing course I could find at the time- doesn’t do fitting though which is a bummer.

  19. Love the look of this blazer on you! And the bow print lining peeking out at the cuffs is just too perfect!! Superbly done!

    • They have so many amazing patterns – I totally agree, Gail! I have been wearing this bad boy to work cuffed and the bows totally make my day!

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